During the Mughal rule in India, which began in the 16th century, the art of jewelry-making flourished. Wearing expensive jewelry marked one’s position. Emperors and empresses, as well as courtiers and other people of high ranks, were adorned with heavy jewelry beset with massive stones and beads.
Mughal emperors were fond of expensive necklaces and chains of pearls, gemstones, and rare beads. Necklaces of pearls usually consisted of simple layers of pearls with colorful pendants and heavy necklaces with sparkling gemstones.
Mughal jewelry is a marriage of Indian intricacy and Middle Eastern elegance, uniting Indian goldwork with Middle Eastern floral designs. Its base is made mainly of gold. Gold-plated silver and other metallic bases are affordable alternatives.
The Mughals adorned themselves with an array of exquisite gold jewellery pieces, reflecting a rich amalgamation of Persian, Central Asian, and Indian design influences. Some of the most popular types of Mughal gold jewellery included:
Jigha
A traditional turban ornament, often crafted with intricate filigree work, precious gemstones, and pearls. The Mughal dynasty had a strict hierarchy system, and they made their Jighas accordingly. Rulers used different types of elements like pearls, gemstones, and feathers on Jighas to distinguish people within different hierarchies.
Sarpech
Sar means “head” or “front,” and pech means “screw,” giving the word “Sarpech” the literal meaning “that which is screwed onto the front (of the turban). The Sarpech is a regal ornament worn at the front of the turban, featuring a magnificent display of gemstones set in gold.
Haar
The Mughal emperors and empresses wore necklaces adorned with precious gemstones like diamonds, emeralds, and rubies, set in gold. Necklaces range from thin ornaments with enameled pendants to heavy ornaments with glittering gemstones.
Jhumkas
Mughal emperors and courtiers wore ear studs or small round earrings made of pearls or gemstones. Empresses wore delicate long earrings made of fine enamel gold and studded with multiple large gemstones, pearls, and premium beads.
Bazu Band
Armlets worn on the upper arms, featuring intricate patterns and gemstone embellishments.
Nath
A nose ring, often large and ornate, symbolizing the elegance and femininity of Mughal empresses.
After the Mughal Empire declined, most of its valuable jewelry was either forfeited or sold. However, some jewelry pieces were recovered and are now displayed in museums. After the Mughal period, women preferred pure gold jewelry and jewelry pieces adorned with tiny beads and gemstones.
The popularity of Mughal jewelry was revived when people viewing the film Jodhaa Akbar , where Hrithik Roshan, who portrayed Emperor Akbar and Aishwarya Rai, who played the Rajput princess Jodhaa, wore such heavy jewelry throughout the film that the leading pair claimed that the toughest task in the entire film-shooting was wearing the bulky jewelry. Viewers were stunned by its splendor.
Mughal jewelry is now extremely popular among women of all ages. It is commonly worn by brides at weddings to endow them with a royal look. With the escalation of gold prices, many imitation reproductions of Mughal jewelry were created to cater to enthusiastic buyers.
The love of the Mughals for gold jewellery left an enduring legacy in Indian culture. Even today, the influence of Mughal designs can be seen in various forms of jewellery prevalent in the Indian subcontinent. The craftsmanship and techniques passed down through generations and the Mughals’ passion for beauty and elegance continue to inspire contemporary jewellery artisans.